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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac - Women's Fall/Winter 2014/15 Collection in Paris (with itw)

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New femininity from jean-charles de castelbajac. with another approach, the designer reinterprets his codes. stripes, designed on fur, twist to make a collar, or energise trousers. mohair stars are embroidered on military-style coats, parkas or biker jackets. a new palette creates striped colour gradations on a trench cape, and softness on braided knitwear maxi jumpers. we spot famous faces drawn onto fur, on plaid t-shirt coats. backstage, jean charles de castelbajac calls it a ‘sportssoir’, paying homage to the feminine surrealism of meret oppenheim, present in this wardrobe. at the same time, this collection reflects his own childhood memories. an elegantly sporty and ultra modern silhouette!interview:jean-charles de castelbajac:these faces, it’s me, it is people that i meet, people who i have lost and i also did the portrait of meret oppenheim as she guided me through this work because there was this idea of mixing a very masculine element, which is the sportswear, with femininity so i wanted this uncontroversial kind of meeting, simply to create modern clothes.for example, there is also this work on college stripes, which is introduced on the fur, on the collar, i loved this furry scarf that my children wore at boarding school. the stripes on the inside of the trousers suddenly appear when she walks so it is a very important line of detail that crystallizes a newly feminine silhouette.there was this idea of using the first symbol that i ever used when i was 17, which were stars, because they are on the american flag, it was 1968, so i took this very popular icon that women usually don’t like too much, as it is seen to be quite girly and i put it on cashmere and did it in bright colours on top of grey, i had a lot of fun.there was also this strong desire for discipline because i am never short of ideas and i am always creating, i have this inside me and that is slightly my problem, so i decided to design this wardrobe in order to work on lines, on shapes, i went back to shapes that i created with my mother at co&co, great plaid coats and things like that but revisited in accordance with that era, so i really enjoyed making this collection.music from the fashion show