Renzo Rosso: "Real fashion cannot engage in 'see now, buy now'"
"The show system cannot be changed. If designers wish to be creative, it is impossible to engage in 'see now, buy now', and put products on sale right after the show," stated Renzo Rosso, expressing his opinion to FashionMag.
The founder of Diesel and chairman of the OTB fashion group (Marni, Viktor & Rolf, Maison Margiela, etc.) has taken a stance on the ongoing debate about fashion calendars.
"The choice of fabrics is a primary requirement in collections. They must be tested beforehand. This means taking time to build a collection and to work on creativity. Only the most commercial brands, which purchase standard-issue fabrics, can implement such a system," said Renzo Rosso.
"Real fashion cannot do this at all. In such a case, it would not be a fashion show any longer, but an event to which end-customers, and not buyers, would be invited," he added.
The OTB boss is more receptive on the subject of mixed shows. "Blending menswear and womenswear in one single show can be done. The reason I went to New York with Diesel Black Gold is because menswear and womenswear were showing together. Eventually however, due to business reasons, I had to split the two segments," he said.
"If you show both collections together, it is impossible to present all the items in the appropriate way. Of course, if everyone went in this direction and it became a global trend, we would also do likewise," concluded the businessman, who is about to celebrate his 60th birthday.
For the occasion, Renzo Rosso will publish a book with Assouline. The 204-pages volume features 150 pictures and is entitled 'RR Radical renaissance 55+5', and will be presented on 17th June in Milan, on the eve of the men's Fashion Week.
"I published a book for my 40th birthday, and another for my 50th. The latest one is the best since it really shows the evolution from what we were, to what we are now and what we will become in the next decade. It is not merely about fashion but also about all my other activities," he stated.
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