Emporio Armani and Gucci explore their possibilities at Milan menswear fashion week
today Jun 21, 2016
Emporio Armani led the way with a spirited collection that focused on DNA and individuality, featuring giant fingerprint patterns that appeared on everything from t-shirts to jackets. The Italian designer also jazzed up his typically neutral color palette, and although the opening looks were a haze of sophisticated blues, greens and neutrals, the show also featured glimpses of postbox red and softer salmon pink.
The looks available were also widely varied -- there were ample examples of gentlemanly tailoring, elegant blousons and raffish neck scarves, but also of salopette or overall-style pants and a series of futuristic, black-and-white athleisure pieces.
Over at Gucci, however, things were even more restless, with Creative Director Alessandro Michele using SS17 to reflect upon the art of traveling. According to Gucci, the clothes were designed to "keep traces of otherness; echoes of spaces, crossed or imagined; temporalities, plural and thickened." This translated to an odyssey of fantasy looks, tailor-made for sailors, preppy intellectuals and fans of the cartoon character Donald Duck, whose image appeared splashed across a sleeveless knitted multicolored sweater.
The fluffy coats, detailed Chinese embroidery embellishments and kimono-style suits were a tribute to the scope of the Italian designer's talent for traveling within his imagination, to a place where toy soldiers and punk rebels can peacefully -- and fashionably -- co-exist.
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