Translated by
Nicola Mira
Jun 27, 2022
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Tranoï show focuses on menswear creativity

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Jun 27, 2022

A dusty pink bomber-style jacket sits alongside a pale yellow sweater enhanced by a neon pink v-neck pattern: the DenzilPatrick wardrobe is a study in contrasts, hovering between an urban and a preppy mood, but always colourful. The menswear label founded in January 2021 by Daniel Gayle, formerly with Philip Lim and Kenzo, unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection with a runway show on June 23. The event was part of the programme of the Tranoï trade show, held at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris until June 26. 

The DenzilPatrick show at Tranoï

In addition to featuring some 40 labels from France, Portugal, the UK, Chile and India, Tranoï invited three exhibitors to present their collections by holding mini runway shows on one of the Palais de Tokyo's terraces.

DenzilPatrick staged the first of the three shows, on Tranoï’s opening day, followed by Live Young Play Hard (LYPH) on June 24, and South African label David Tlale on June 25.

As a platform for designer brands, Tranoï has given its exhibitors a new, more engaging way of presenting their collections.

Colours played a starring role in the Parisian show’s latest edition. For example, with the patchwork shirts made from scarves by US designer NPalmer. Based in London and a graduate of Central Saint Martins, he launched his own label during the first lockdown, and advocates “fashion that is unique and fun.”

Colours are also very much on the map at Hemsley London. Launched in 2020 in London by Jayne Hemsley, an activist designer who has worked at Alexander McQueen and Martine Rose, Hemsley London unveiled a collection inspired by aviation and the pioneering women pilots who “defied gravity and social oppression, like Bessie Coleman, the first black woman to hold an aeroplane pilot license.” Trousers play a big part in Hemsley London's collection, as well as oversize sweatshirts bearing the ‘Don't Be a Passenger’ slogan.

The entrance to Tranoï on Thursday June 23

More minimalist and understated, the collections by Chilean designer Guido Vera and Indian label ITOH exhibited alongside French handbag brand Jack Gomme, which presented its men’s range at Tranoï. “Jack Gomme has three stores and [is available at] more than 150 multibrand retailers. The brand generates 70% of its sales outside France, exporting mainly to Japan and the USA. E-tail is fine, but having a connection with people again is a necessity. We need both,” said a Jack Gomme representative.

Now that international travel is once again possible, many buyers came back to Tranoï, from Europe primarily, but also from the USA, South Korea and Japan. Chinese buyers were still unable to travel, but Tranoï was able to hold livestream meeting sessions.

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