Natalia Grgona of Paris Modes TV: “color and flowers are the NY Fashion Week takeaways”
today Sep 16, 2016
As New York Fashion Week wraps up, fashion journalist Natalia Grgona of Paris Modes TV gives us her take on this latest round of catwalk shows, showcasing upcoming trends and new faces to watch out for on the runway.
What were the key catwalk trends for spring/summer 2017 in New York?
Color and flowers. As the Indian summer draws on, American designers seemed keen to foster a positive attitude with vibrant tones like pink, orange and green, spotted at Thom Browne, Tory Burch, Michael Kors, etc. Almost all added flower embellishments too, creating a 3D effect on garments.
Lingerie and sheer fabrics are another trend, with high-waist briefs and bras visible underneath dresses. Bras tend to take the form of bralets or even crop-top styles, matched in each show with a skirt or baggy pants.
There were apron dresses too -- simple but always stylish -- as seen at Zac Posen, Oscar de la Renta, Victoria Beckham.
Also, thin tank-top dresses, often in knit fabrics, ready to slip on and go, like at Proenza Schouler and Boss.
What are the key pieces for spring/summer 2017 wardrobes?
The pleated skirt is back in a big way. Already spotted last season, this must-have was everywhere, both on the runways and on the streets. Worn just below the knee, the pleated skirt can go chic, playing with sheer effects and sparkling sequins, worn with a t-shirt or a white shirt. For summer 2017, it gets a new, sophisticated touch, with a printed face design at Jeremy Scott or three dashes of color at Victoria Beckham.
How has the new trend for buy-now-see-now changed the ambiance at fashion week?
I think that we are still in the very early stages of a change that is just beginning. At the start of Fashion Week, that's all anyone was talking about, with the Tom Ford show -- one of the first to declare last season that his collection would be available right away -- then Tommy Hilfiger, which caused a buzz with its Gigi Hadid x Tommy range, and Alexander Wang with its Adidas collab, on sale the following day in New York. Everyone has their own catchy phrase too. For Tommy it's "see now, have now," whereas for Michael Kors it's "ready to wear, ready to go." Ralph Lauren even held its show in the brand's Madison Avenue store. It's therefore evidently much more than just a trend -- it's a reality -- although these examples do show that we are nevertheless talking about major fashion houses with the means to manufacture quickly enough to keep pace. And, very often, only a few garments (about a dozen for Michael Kors, for example) actually go on sale the next day.
It is also important to note that designers still consider that the creative process takes time and that a beautiful garment takes time to create. Plenty of designers -- like Phillip Lim, Thom Browne, Zac Posen -- have spoken in interviews about artisanal craftsmanship, hand-made pieces, and the desire to own and wear something well-made, and they continue to highlight that side of their work.
Which models stood out as faces to follow?
Grace Hartzel is the current catwalk sensation, whereas this Fashion Week favorite is Ellen Rosa, who is well and truly on the rise. She has already opened several shows, including the Altuzarra show.
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