Men's fashion week: the major trends for spring-summer 2017
today Jun 28, 2016
The men's collections for spring-summer 2017, which finished up recently in London, Milan and Paris, highlighted ten major trends: from voluminous silhouettes to light and fine fabrics such as nylon and as well as some new pieces set to sizzle next summer: the boiler suit and the djellaba.
The new men's style next year is stretched and elongated. The play on proportions first appeared last winter and was confirmed as a notable trend this season. But this time, there was more ample volume across the board with comfort t-shirts and trousers adding to the lengthiness. Shirts fell to past the buttocks, trousers hung unendingly and bunched at the feet, seen at Rick Owens, while coats dripped along the floor.
2) Ultra light nylon
Summer 2017 will be sweltering. Cotton, linen, silk, ultra fine wool... designers drew on lightweight cloth to fashion men's warm weather wardrobes. Mylon and indescribably light technical fabrics such as parachute materials made clothes fly and swell like nothing else: windbreakers, mac coats and baggy rain pants typically worn by bikers and skiers - unavoidable pieces for next summer.
3) Retro jogger pants
This piece, glimpsed in seasons past, became a force in menswear this season. The jogger pant appeared in cotton jersey in a wide fit with cuffs on the ankles, or more comfortable still, in fleece, and gathered at the waist with a drawstring. It fit in perfectly with today's relaxed style, and is both convenient and fashionable enough that men could even be sporting a pair on their wedding day!
4) Yellow gold
As well as the prominence of classic and muted tones - black, navy, khaki and burgundy - pastel colours (sugared pink, mint green, mimosa yellow, lilac, soft orange and sky blue) made their entrance this season. But it was the flashy touches which made a bolder impact still; orange and waxed yellow gold lighting up a number of shows.
5) Boiler suit
This will the key piece next summer. Inspired by workwear, the boiler suit featured in many collections, in many variations: in zipped-up monochrome nylon at Lemaire; in nylon again - but this time ornate and colourful - at MSGM; in khaki and navy with a rainbow collar or Madras check at Paul Smith; and in metals or fringed like straw at Walter Van Beirendonck.
6) Tie the knot
Prada first proposed it for winter 2014-15. The ultra fine neck scarf, much like a tie or ribbon and tied on the side of the neck, defined a new elegance for men. In the same vein, Louis Vuitton, riding on the punk trend seen here and there on the runway, sent out unabridged studded dog collars on the necks of models.
7) Checkerboard effect
You'd have thought it had disappeared forever. The famous black and white checkerboard print characterised by the Mod, or ska look even, and steeped in Punk influences, returned to the stage of Givenchy, Dior and Dsquared2. As a Madras plaid, the check could be seen in other collections too, namely Moncler gamme Bleu.
8) The tunic
The long, below the knee tunic, which was reared its head for the first time last summer, came on strong this season and in different forms: Moroccan cafta, djellaba style or as a silk night robe. Lemaire created a denim version too, while J.W. Anderson lent himself to some artistic variations of the traditional dress.
9) The double belt
Trousers came tied with two belts. It was a chic accessory detail for a new men's look which arrived on the runways of a few brands this season. Most notably, Salvatore Ferragamo and the young Japanese label Facetasm.
10) Never without my socks and backpack
From the boyish look of shorts and socks or knee socks exposing hairless legs, to large socks worn purposefully with sandals, socks will be indispensable next summer.
So too will the backpack. It proved fashionable and practical for the camper-explorer seen several times on the runway this season. It's a backpack which contains all the necessary things - thermos and sleeping bag, and even the some high-heeled shoes, going by what was seen at Prada.
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