Translated by
Benjamin Fitzgerald
Jun 28, 2016
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Men's fashion week: the major trends for spring-summer 2017

Translated by
Benjamin Fitzgerald
Jun 28, 2016

The men's collections for spring-summer 2017, which finished up recently in London, Milan and Paris, highlighted ten major trends: from voluminous silhouettes to light and fine fabrics such as nylon and as well as some new pieces set to sizzle next summer: the boiler suit and the djellaba.

1) Maxi

The maxi trench at Dries Van Noten - © PixelFormula

The new men's style next year is stretched and elongated. The play on proportions first appeared last winter and was confirmed as a notable trend this season. But this time, there was more ample volume across the board with comfort t-shirts and trousers adding to the lengthiness. Shirts fell to past the buttocks, trousers hung unendingly and bunched at the feet, seen at Rick Owens, while coats dripped along the floor.
2) Ultra light nylon 

The parachute parka at Versace - © PixelFormula

Summer 2017 will be sweltering. Cotton, linen, silk, ultra fine wool... designers drew on lightweight cloth to fashion men's warm weather wardrobes. Mylon and indescribably light technical fabrics such as parachute materials made clothes fly and swell like nothing else: windbreakers, mac coats and baggy rain pants typically worn by bikers and skiers - unavoidable pieces for next summer.

3) Retro jogger pants

Groom Stéphane Ashpool was wearing white jogger pants during the showing of his label Pigalle - Instagram

This piece, glimpsed in seasons past, became a force in menswear this season. The jogger pant appeared in cotton jersey in a wide fit with cuffs on the ankles, or more comfortable still, in fleece, and gathered at the waist with a drawstring. It fit in perfectly with today's relaxed style, and is both convenient and fashionable enough that men could even be sporting a pair on their wedding day!

4) Yellow gold

Gucci pared jogger pants with a waxed yellow trench coat - © PixelFormula

As well as the prominence of classic and muted tones - black, navy, khaki and burgundy - pastel colours (sugared pink, mint green, mimosa yellow, lilac, soft orange and sky blue) made their entrance this season. But it was the flashy touches which made a bolder impact still; orange and waxed yellow gold lighting up a number of shows.

5) Boiler suit

Walter Van Beirendonck creates a foil spacesuit - © PixelFormula

This will the key piece next summer. Inspired by workwear, the boiler suit featured in many collections, in many variations: in zipped-up monochrome nylon at Lemaire; in nylon again - but this time ornate and colourful - at MSGM; in khaki and navy with a rainbow collar or Madras check at Paul Smith; and in metals or fringed like straw at Walter Van Beirendonck.

6) Tie the knot

At Kolor, the scarf takes the form of a tie - © PixelFormula

Prada first proposed it for winter 2014-15. The ultra fine neck scarf, much like a tie or ribbon and  tied on the side of the neck, defined a new elegance for men. In the same vein, Louis Vuitton, riding on the punk trend seen here and there on the runway, sent out unabridged studded dog collars on the necks of models.

7) Checkerboard effect

A blouson with a 3-D checkerboard effect at DSquared2 - © PixelFormula

You'd have thought it had disappeared forever. The famous black and white checkerboard print characterised by the Mod, or ska look even, and steeped in Punk influences, returned to the stage of Givenchy, Dior and Dsquared2. As a Madras plaid, the check could be seen in other collections too, namely Moncler gamme Bleu.

8) The tunic

Dolce & Gabbana sent out a maxi tunique in silk, super chic - © PixelFormula

The long, below the knee tunic, which was reared its head for the first time last summer, came on strong this season and in different forms: Moroccan cafta, djellaba style or as a silk night robe. Lemaire created a denim version too, while J.W. Anderson lent himself to some artistic variations of the traditional dress.

9) The double belt

The belt turns double at Salvatore Ferragamo - © PixelFormula

Trousers came tied with two belts. It was a chic accessory detail for a new men's look which arrived on the runways of a few brands this season. Most notably, Salvatore Ferragamo and the young Japanese label Facetasm.

10) Never without my socks and backpack

Boris Bidjan Saberi, knee socks and a golden yellow back pack - © PixelFormula

From the boyish look of shorts and socks or knee socks exposing hairless legs, to large socks worn purposefully with sandals, socks will be indispensable next summer.

So too will the backpack. It proved fashionable and practical for the camper-explorer seen several times on the runway this season. It's a backpack which contains all the necessary things - thermos and sleeping bag, and even the some high-heeled shoes, going by what was seen at Prada.


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