Mar 2, 2020
Beautiful People presents wearable deconstruction at Paris Fashion Week
Mar 2, 2020
Beautiful People has entered the fourth season of its ‘Side-C’ concept project which explores the space between the outside and the lining of a garment. The label presented a more wearable take on deconstruction this season, and although items appeared simple at first glance, each one contained a hidden feature to give a fresh surprise, as if it were a trick by M C Escher.
The main theme of Beautiful People’s Side-C / Vol.4 ‘Intimate’ collection was showcasing materials that are often hidden inside a garment such as lining and padding. The lining of a checked trench coat that could be seen at its opening also peeked out from its double lapel. In addition, other classic and elegant yet transformed items stood out such as a two-tone reversible robe-style coat where the left and right sides were switched half-way; a cape with an integrated checked lining, and a skirt with a printed lining that could be seen on its asymmetrical hem.
Knitwear and accessories played a big role this season, as did dresses that featured three layers of thin jersey. The clothing allowed the wearer to show a number of colours and varied expression depending on how they choose to wear the clothing and some of the bags could have their entire shape altered by the wearer.
The collection centred around wool and used textiles with a sense of class, such as menswear suiting, and had an underlying colour palette of black, grey, khaki, and neutral. With soft, flowing silhouettes, the collection’s clean and minimal style echoed the mainstream aesthetic. Designer Hidenori Kumakiri has managed to successfully insert his transformed-garment concept and quirky patterns into the everyday wardrobe.
The linchpin of the collection was the reversible puffer coat. The garment’s filling was inspired by architectural insulation, a material that was also used for the show’s invitations and for the runway set at the venue. The collection’s industrial-style print, which brings to mind packaging used for building materials, was also striking and the textile was designed from scratch for the collection.
“In the coming era, we must not only make things, we must also think about what happens to them afterwards,” said designer Kumakiri, speaking about the need for greater consciousness about sustainability. As well as using recycled materials, Kumakiri created garments designed so that they can be worn multiple ways which leads to a new way of consumption where we own less and use more.
“I have pushed the boundaries between construction and deconstruction,” said Kumakiri. “Instead of staying on one side of this dichotomy, I hope to create something new from it.” The collection presents conceptual ideas as classic, wearable items. The brand has already established a solid position in Japan and global expansion could be on the cards in the near future. Outside of Asia, Beautiful People is currently distributed in France, the US, and the UK.
“Conscious of the boundaries between men and women, I decoded to showcase menswear and womenswear at the same time because I had incorporated elements such as men’s workwear,” Kumakiri said about the brand’s first time showing menswear looks on the runway.
The collection had an industrial mood and conceptual designs which were translated into classic and basic items and it concluded as a wearable collection for both both men and women.
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