Mariano Fortuny, inventor of the pleats.

The first big Parisian retrospective at the Palais Galliera, dedicated to Mariano Fortuny, Venetian by adoption, but of Spanish origin, famous for his pleats and textile printing. An ardent defender of the liberation of the body with a garment without a waistline and with straight lines. His work was nearly a century ahead and continues to inspire the world of fashion, with houses such as Issey Miyake and Valentino following his example! Dive into a timeless elegance… Fortuny Exhibition, a spaniard in Venice (until 7th Janurary 2018)Palais Galliera10 av. Pierre 1er de SerbieParis 16eInterview with Sophie Grossiord:Mariano Fortuny is an absolutely exceptional inventor who was interested in all disciplines. Before his interest in textiles he was first and foremost a painter, the son of a painter, he always declared himself to be a painter but he was also practiced in photography, design, all types of invention, he registered a multitude of patents at the beginning of the century. The famous ‘Delphos’ pleats that many of us know today, are actually the invention of his wife, Henrietta, who had an absolutely phenomenal success at the start of the 1910’s until the 1940’s beside emancipated women who were firstly artists, opera singers, dancers such as Isadora Duncan who were women really at the forefront, at the forefront of modern fashion, if I may say, contemporary fashion. We can find through these pieces by Mariano Fortuny first and foremost a Greek influence which is decisive, and which took off towards 1906 when he starts to practice textile printing and makes his mark in a very very strong way through his work, notably through the famous ‘Cnossos’ shawls, which we mention in this exhibition. Then there are obviously all the inspirations which come from the East, which come from North Africa, equally Coptic inspiration, obviously renaissance. We can only understand his work if we were to precisely take all of the space that holds the light in his inspiration and Proust is one that’s very very well understood since we have famous descriptions in Proust’s writing where he speaks of the reflections of the big canal in these famous Fortuny velvets. Fortuny evidentially had a great desire to free the body, no typology that we’ve seen in this exhibition contradict that, all these clothes are very loose, very straight shapes, the casaquins, all the dresses, all the shapes are determines by a desire to free the body without those, we cannot understand what was Mariano Fortuny. Musique royalty free: Bandit & Nikit 2017

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